Stokes drift — the series · Fluid Flow & Aerodynamics

Four turns of a wave, and the parcel is not back. Two parcels traced through four periods of a linear deep-water wave of steepness 0.1, by integrating the exact velocity field. Each orbit is very nearly a closed circle and misses closing by a little, every time, in the same direction — that miss is the whole of the Stokes drift. The near-surface parcel advances 0.0357 of a wavelength over the four cycles and the one a tenth of a wavelength down advances 0.0122, a third as far — because the drift falls off twice as fast with depth as the orbit's own size does.

The drift in a wave that has none

The velocity at any fixed point under a passing wave averages to exactly zero, and every parcel of water in it moves steadily forward anyway. The orbits do not close, they miss by the same amount every time, and the missing amount is the square of the steepness times the wave speed.

part 1 · kinematics

And the net drift, which is where they disagree. The Stokes drift plus each return flow. All three drift forward at the surface, because the Stokes drift there swamps any return current of the right size. Below that they part company completely: the uniform current has most of the column moving upstream, and the two that satisfy no slip have almost none of it. The reversal depths span 77 per cent of the water column.

The drift a closed box will not allow

A wave in a wave tank carries mass forward, and the tank has nowhere to put it. So a return current appears carrying exactly the opposite transport — exactly, from mass conservation and nothing else. Which fixes a total and leaves the answer anybody wants entirely open.

part 2 · kinematics

A drift made of two things that average to zero

Stokes drift is usually explained as a parcel spending longer in the forward half of its orbit. That is true and it is not a formula. The formula is a correlation between a displacement and a gradient, each of which averages to exactly nothing, and it splits into two halves that are equal to twelve figures.

part 3 · kinematics

A float under swell on a rotating planet goes round instead of away. The track of a float at the surface over 1 inertial periods (16.9 hours) after a 8 s swell of amplitude 1 m arrives at latitude 45°, in kilometres, the waves travelling to the right. Without friction the float runs round a circle of radius Uₛ/f = 0.479 km and comes back to where it started every 16.92 hours. With a drag on the Eulerian current it spirals out into a steady drift veered to the right: 24.3 per cent of the drift at 76.0° for a drag of 0.25 f; 70.7 per cent of the drift at 45.0° for a drag of 1 f; 94.9 per cent of the drift at 18.4° for a drag of 3 f. In a non-rotating ocean the same float would have gone 3.0 km straight on.

The drift a rotating planet takes back

In a wave tank the Stokes drift is cancelled by a return current because the tank has walls. The open ocean has none, and the drift is cancelled anyway: the Coriolis force acts on the water's real motion, drives an Eulerian current that answers it, and leaves the depth-integrated transport exactly zero at every viscosity. A float under steady swell with nothing to stop it goes round a circle instead of away.

part 4 · kinematics

Rolls turning side by side, with the fastest downwind water where they sink. The fastest-growing mode at a Langmuir number of 0.13, looking downwind, over two roll spacings of 2.89 decay depths and 4 decay depths down. The closed curves are streamlines of the overturning; the dashed curves are contours of the downwind velocity the rolls carry, positive under the lines where the water sinks. At the surface the cross-wind flow converges onto those lines, which is where floating foam and weed collect as windrows. The amplitude is arbitrary, as in any linear mode.

The drift that turns a current into rolls

A current carrying a Stokes drift feels a force the drift makes out of the current's own vorticity, and under a wind that force is unstable. It turns the surface layer into rolls lined up downwind, with windrows where they sink. The rolls need both the current's shear and the drift's; their growth rate sees only the product; and the split between the two decides which motion gets the energy.

part 5 · kinematics

The kept transport spirals into nothing as the sea deepens. The net Lagrangian transport as a vector, scaled on the Stokes transport, traced as the water depth increases from a quarter of an Ekman depth to eight, for an 8-second swell with an eddy viscosity of 0.01 m²/s. Shallow water keeps the whole transport pointing with the waves, at the right-hand end. As the sea deepens the vector shortens and swings to the right, crosses the across-wave axis near two Ekman depths, and winds into the origin, which is the open ocean's exact cancellation.

The floor that gives the drift back

In the open ocean the Coriolis force drives a current that cancels a swell's Stokes transport exactly. Over a continental shelf the sea floor holds a stress, and whatever it holds is transport the rotation does not take back. How much survives depends almost only on the depth in Ekman depths; which way it points depends on the wave.

part 6 · kinematics