Concept

Group velocity — where it appears

The speed at which a wave packet's energy travels, which differs from the phase speed whenever the medium is dispersive. For internal waves it is at right angles to the phase velocity, which is among the least intuitive results in the subject.

Named by 4 essays across 4 fields — each of them below, with the objects they name alongside it.

The Kelvin wake, and the angle it comes out at. The wake behind something moving over deep water. Each curve joins everything radiated at one moment, wherever it has since travelled to. All of it stays inside a wedge whose half-angle is the inverse sine of one third, about nineteen and a half degrees, and that number does not depend on the speed, on gravity, or on the size of the vessel.

The angle that does not care

Every ship on deep water leaves a wake inside a wedge of the same angle. Not roughly the same — the same, for a rowing boat and a supertanker, at any speed either of them can manage, on any planet with any gravity.

regimes · Froude

A cross at 30.0° for every wavelength it makes. A body oscillating at ω = 0.5N in a stratified fluid, and the four beams along which its energy leaves. The angle is arccos(ω/N) from the vertical — 30.0 degrees from the horizontal here — and it is the same for every wavelength the body excites, because the dispersion relation has no length in it. The short strokes are the crests, which lie along the beams rather than across them: the phase advances perpendicular to the energy, and the two are exactly at right angles. Raise the frequency and the cross closes towards the vertical; reach ω = N and it shuts entirely, because nothing above the buoyancy frequency propagates.

The number that stops the mixing

A fluid whose density falls with height resists being stirred, and the resistance has a threshold at exactly one quarter, from an energy balance with no fluid mechanics in it. The waves such a fluid carries are stranger still — their frequency decides the direction they travel in and says nothing about their wavelength.

turbulence · Stratification

The chord and the tangent, which are the two speeds. The flux of a conserved quantity against its own density, for a wide river and for traffic. At any point the slope of the chord from the origin is the speed the material moves at, and the slope of the tangent is the speed a disturbance moves at. They are the same number only if the curve is a straight line through the origin. For the river the tangent is five-thirds of the chord at every depth; for traffic the tangent turns negative above half the jam density while the chord never does.

A wave nothing in it travels with

A flood crest moves at five-thirds the speed of the water it is made of, at every depth, whatever the roughness and whatever the slope. A traffic wave moves backwards through cars that are all going forwards. Neither result contains a momentum equation.

kinematics · Kinematic waves

The free surface a submerged body leaves behind it, and the flat water in front. The linearised free-surface problem solved as a Fourier integral with a radiation condition. Behind the body a wave train of the wavelength that stands still relative to it, 2 pi U²/g; ahead of it, an amplitude a hundred and twenty times smaller. The asymmetry is the drag: an ideal fluid with a free surface can carry energy away.

The drag that is made of waves

D'Alembert's paradox says a body in a steady, irrotational, incompressible, inviscid flow feels no drag. Put a free surface above it and every one of those words still holds — and the drag is not zero. It is the energy walking away in the wave train behind.

inviscid · Dalembert

Named alongside it

The objects these essays reach for when they reach for this one.

Model limit Dispersion Froude number Buoyancy frequency Characteristics Conservation Constitutive law d'Alembert's paradox Dimensionless Discontinuity Dispersion relation Doublet

All concepts